Tfcc Injury Climbing. Jan 1, 2025 · In this conversation, physical therapist Kimm

Jan 1, 2025 · In this conversation, physical therapist Kimmy Wiley and Jared Vagy discuss TFCC wrist injuries in rock climbers. In this conversation, physical therapist Kimmy Wiley and Jared Vagy discuss TFCC wrist injuries in rock climbers. Many people pursue rock-climbing as a serious hobby. Dec 18, 2023 · Triangular Fibrocartilage Complex (TFCC) Injuries, a common cause of ulnar-sided wrist pain, may result from trauma or due to degenerative changes. Sounds like a possible TFCC injury? Slopers tend to aggravate the TFCC, it’s how I injured mine. Some provocative or irritable Aug 11, 2025 · If you’ve got pain on the ulnar side of your wrist that’s plaguing your climbing, training, or heck, even just doing the dishes, then you’ve come to the right place. Looking for some advice from fellow climbers. I feel like I’m pretty strong within weightlifting metrics but wanted to improve my bench (possible contributor to TFCC injury!). Expert TFCC Physio Melbourne. I've found that I can just avoid using the open-hand with the injured hand which has meant I can keep climbing as much as normal (three times a week on average). In this video we’ll teach you everything you need to know about recovering from TFCC injuries, including what the TFCC actually is, why injuries happen, what exercises to perform, and how long it’ll take until you’re Sep 25, 2025 · The TFCC is the wrist’s main shock absorber and stabilizer. It was a fundamental starting point of my rehab journey. They cover the definition and location of the TFCC, common symptoms, and tests to Associating wrist pain after climbing to TFCC injury is a common deduction - but that might not necessarily be the case. 5 years post injury. Since I don't engage the ulnar side of my wrist (lack of pinky during crimps) I never really developed ulnar side wrist stabilization and pinky strength. Started bouldering in… i had tfcc injuries in both wrists that are thankfully pretty much gone now! highly recommend the wrist widget, and doing lightweight wrist curls and extensions/reverse wrist curls. I had TFCC very early into climbing and had tried taping, wrist widget, electrical acupuncture, and wrist gadgets. The pain is on the… Dec 18, 2023 · Triangular Fibrocartilage Complex (TFCC) Injuries, a common cause of ulnar-sided wrist pain, may result from trauma or due to degenerative changes. 9 or so and over) in 1-2 more months. I think I might have injured the TFCC, but I'm not sure. Does a TFCC injury usually consist of a swollen ulna bone/hump? Sep 25, 2025 · Climbing load points: slopers, underclings, gastons, twisting pinches, dynamic mantles. Early Clues You Might Have a TFCC Injury Deep ache or sharp pain on the wrist’s pinky side Clicking or a “giving way” feeling with rotation or weight bearing Pain with heavy pronation/supination or when leaning hard on slopers and gastons We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Shoulder injuries in climbing The shoulder typically accounts for 17% of all climbing-related injuries. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. TFCC tears can cause pain, instability, and difficulty performing daily activities or participating in sports. They also discuss the importance of deloading and modifying climbing movements to avoid aggravating the injury. Adjacent marrow edema - means there's swelling inside the bone near the injury, indicating inflammation or bruising. I found the most success with a combination of lots of rest, a wrist widget/full brace, and wrist flexibility exercises. Well I had positive ulnar variance as well which means my outer arm bone was too long and was rubbing into the tear not letting it heal. Jul 10, 2024 · This categorizes injuries based on chronicity of pathology (acute versus chronic) and their anatomic location. I wear a Wrist Widget brace when climbing, it helps a ton (but will only help if it is actually a TFCC injury). I’m really tired o I strained my left wrist (I’m right handed) with bouldering around 4 weeks ago. Examples of these common wrist injuries include triangular fibrocartilage complex (TFCC) strain/tear and extensor carpi ulnaris (ECU) injury. After the first few weeks waiting for my TFCC to heal, I did a lot of one-handed climbing (TR and bouldering) at the gym. I really just let pain be my limit. TFCC injuries are the second most common climbing injury among climbers. Rock climbing has an increased following in the last several decades. i do about 30x reps of each with a 5lb dumbbell before climbing and they feel so much better and stronger! gl with recovering! Jun 10, 2009 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Triangular Fibrocartilage Complex (TFCC) Tears and Treatment at Midwest Orthopaedics at Rush The triangular fibrocartilage complex (TFCC) is a critical structure in the wrist that stabilizes the joint and enables smooth motion. This pesky injury has managed to keep me off climbing for the past 1. Symptoms of a TFCC injury include chronic pain (if left untreated), instability in the wrist, a limited range of motion, weakness and hearing a clicking or popping sound while turning or moving the wrist. An injury or breakdown of cartilage can cause a TFCC tear. I primarily boulder and was hoping to really increase my climbing volume and skill building but fate seems to point me otherwise for the time being. I've seen an orthopedist, done physical therapy, and followed all the steps, but every time I try climbing again, my wrist flares up the next day. Learn more about how to treat them and the recovery time involved. Rest, mobility, then strengthening. @ournextclimb things you learn when you have a torn tfcc… 🫠 #tfcc #injury #climber 121 Dislike I have a theory that people with wrist pain and/or TFCC (myself included) crimp incorrectly. Too much rock climbing can cause damage to the structures that stabilize and support your wrist. Lots of ups and downs until I eventually decided to give up due to worsening of the injury (pain tolerance is your enemy here). Add in several years of route setting in climbing gyms immediately after the initial injury (lots of twisting resulting in additional wear and tear). It could be a lot of other things, and a professional will be able to do in-person testing. 5 years (saddest period of my life!!!) and I've been frothing and training the rest of my body to get back ever since. TFCC wrist pain explained—clear diagnosis, smart rehab, and when surgery helps. It sounds like it could be a TFCC injury (which is very common), but you should see a hand specialist to diagnose. You need to know the severity of the TFCC injury before any type of recovery plan is implemented. So, from strengthening exercises to climbing wrist supports, here’s how to protect your wrists from pain and injuries. Nov 27, 2024 · An unfortunate reality in climbing is that it puts a lot of strain on our bodies which means there are lots of ways for us to injure ourselves. 3 exercises for Wrist Pain! (TFCC) #wristpain #physicaltherapy #climbing #injury #relief #pain We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. . You may not have a tear but you just want to make sure. TFCC injuries are characterized by a “persistent dull ache” or sharper pain, especially on pinky side of wrist. TFCC tears in both wrists. Moved Permanently The document has moved here. Knowing that certain positions or holds will cause pain and trying to We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 6 climb a week. One of the key roles of the TFCC is to act as a shock absorber in the wrist. TFCC injuries require maintenance. It will impact your climbing but that doesn't mean you have to stop, I've been able to get back to near were I was before my injury. Not something that I have heard of before. May 6, 2013 · Yes. The most common wrist injury in climbers is damage to the triangular fibrocar-tilage complex (TFCC). Still have minor pain when turning my wrist certain directions or weighting it in certain positions, I can't even climb after almost a year and this injury is putting me in a mental black hole. ONLY JUGS!! At about month 8 I was climbing at about 75% with the wrist widget. This is particularly relevant to climbing, which often involves high-impact load TFCC - alternative pulling exercises that don't involve wrist submitted 3 months ago by wisteriart So I've been battling a bit of a TFCC injury from climbing from a few months ago so I'm still resting my right wrist for the unforeseeable future, but in doing so, I've been losing a lot of pulling strength. Another common injury to the wrist and hand is Triangular Fibrocartilage Complex (TFCC) injury. May 7, 2025 · Injuries to the wrist complex and the TFCC (triangular fibrocartilage complex) are relatively common in climbers due to the high demands placed on the wrists and the variety of grip positions used during climbing. Triangular Fibrocartilage Complex Injury (TFCC) Triangular Fibrocartilage Complex Tear (TFCC) The Triangular Fibrocartilage Complex (TFCC) is a complex structure that helps to stabilize and support the hand. TFCC irritation is super common, and you should be able to rehab it. In most rock climbing cases, falling on an outstretched hand or overuse of the wrist can cause a TFCC injury. Late but wanted to provide a positive anecdotal experience with my TFCC strain/minor tear. When I tore mine (small tear no surgery) I was not climbing and focused solely on other forms of exercise and PT for that In this conversation, physical therapist Kimmy Wiley and Jared Vagy discuss TFCC wrist injuries in rock climbers. Early recognition, stepwise imaging, and progressive reloading let most climbers return to pain-free, powerful movement—without chronic wrist trouble. Care includes bracing, therapy or surgical repair for persistent symptoms. Since then I rested and I was wearing support + since yesterday Wrist… I work at a computer, and even using a mouse and keyboard was painful. If the pain impacts your daily life beyond climbing like in my case (opening jars, writing, a few other activities) then it is 100% worth looking into! How to Fix Ulnar Wrist Pain (TFCC RECOVERY GUIDE) Hooper's Beta 140K subscribers Subscribed The triangular fibrocartilage complex (TFCC) helps cushion and stabilize your wrist. Wrist and hand injuries make up as much as 73% of all rock climbing injuries! The number may be a shock, but the wrist is a pretty delicate structure without any significant muscles to support it. It connects the two forearm bones to one another. TFCC injuries can really be disheartening with how much it can make even basic movements difficult. Understanding TFCC Wrist Injuries in Climbers TFCC injuries are complex, and rehab looks different from that of tendon injuries. The TFCC also connects Jan 13, 2026 · Since 1970, Climbing Magazine has been the voice of the climbing world, publishing climbing news, interviews, features, opinions, and advice. Anecdote: GF has a minor, self-diagnosed (so feel free to discard this anecdote) TFCC injury, likely a combination of a traumatic event at work followed by climbing. Nov 9, 2025 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Listen to this episode from The Climbing Doctor Podcast on Spotify. Doctor did a karate move by twisting my wrist and put me in excruciating pain and knew exactly what it was (TFCC tear). It can be frustrating to have to climb lower grades than you’re used to, but a good opportunity to work on footwork and core strength, etc. d. Identifying the type of injury and initiating appropriate treatment for TFCC injuries is essential, as injuries can result in significant time missed from sports activities. I injured my TFCC late November, I think from just putting it under too much strain without any major rest days (climbing + deadlifting). Jared Vagy. Jan 13, 2017 · Disc injuries (Triangular Fibrocartilage Complex – TFCC) are overuse injuries affecting cartilaginous tissues in the wrist. How long… I just started climbing again after a TFCC injury in January and it's at the rate of something like one 5. While finger, elbow, and shoulder injuries are the most common in climbers, wrist pain injuries are often overlooked despite the fact that they can be just as debilitating. A tear of the ulnar attachment of the triangular fibrocartilage complex (TFCC) with avulsion around the fovea - meaning the tear caused a small piece of bone to be pulled away from the area called the fovea, near the end of the ulna. Took a month off of everything and spent the last two months slowly rebuilding strength in the wrist with a physio that specializes in hand/wrist injuries. Few months went by with various empirical treatments and conservative climbing. In more severe cases, surgery is necessary to remove the damaged tissue and clean off the torn edges; this is also known as debriding. Was climbing ~V8 and noticed after a session (next day) that my ulnar-side would hurt when turning my hand with something as low weight as my phone. Hello, thanks ahead for the help and advice on my TFCC injury! See edit below for advice on rehab if you injury is similar. Not to mention, climbing relies quite heavily on the hands and wrists. Knowing that certain positions or holds will cause pain and trying to Wrist and hand injuries make up as much as 73% of all rock climbing injuries! The number may be a shock, but the wrist is a pretty delicate structure without any significant muscles to support it. Nov 14, 2023 · Experiencing wrist pain or TFCC after a bouldering session? Learn how sports physiotherapy can provide pain relief. During climbing the things do help but it never got rid of the issue for a good 2 years. TFCC tear will not stop you from climbing. Apr 14, 2017 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I went to see the doc to confirm I had tfcc tear but couldn't afford the MRI or any further visits. Best of luck, tfcc injuries are pretty terrible. I wore the wrist widget climbing for the next year almost. However, there are specific injuries common among rock climbers that can occur. fwiw I have been climbing about 17 years; v8-9 before injury, climbing v6-7 with the wrist widget on about 1. Oct 4, 2022 · Boost your resilience and climb smarter with this training program geared for injury-free climbing by “The Climbing Doctor,” Dr. By week 3, I saw an orthopedic doctor, got some X-rays, and explained my climbing-related injury. Find out more Wrist Injuries Rock climbing requires a lot of joint stability. I just started climbing consistently (2-3x a week), and right wrist started to hurt. Jul 19, 2020 · I've had some wrist pain for a number of months. I show you the most common Jan 29, 2025 · The Triangular Fibrocartilage Complex (TFCC) injury involves damage to the cartilage and ligaments on the ulnar side of the wrist, which provide. Sep 17, 2024 · I got overly competitive during a bouldering comp and hurt mine almost 3 months ago. Multiple tears and repeated injury to right wrist over a 20 year period. I'm now back to climbing around 6-8 months after the surgery and vigilance is the most important thing for me. They cover the definition and location of the TFCC, common symptoms, and tests to diagnose the injury. What could be causing my right ulna bone to be sticking out more than my left? I'm also experiencing a slight bit of pain on the pinky side when I move my wrist in certain positions. Regardless, the only long term side effect besides diminished pronation strength is the possibility of arthritis. Had a Tfcc injury about 3 months ago in June whilst boxing. Just had my first day out rock climbing post lockdown and the pain increased somewhat, it has been throbbing and was maybe slightly swollen - I have finally become concerned! A quick google diagnosis suggests that it is TFCC tear or damage. The TFCC is made of tough con-nective tissue and cartilage. I did have surgery to correct it and was worried I would never be able to climb again. Sep 21, 2023 · Common wrist injuries in climbing include sprains, strains, and even more severe issues such as tendon or ligament damage. Sep 23, 2025 · Rock climbing expert Calum Muskett tells Insure4Sport how to stay safe while climbing and how to avoid rock climbing finger injuries. A TFCC tear causes ulnar-side wrist pain, clicking and reduced grip. How long… I have a self-diagnosed TFCC injury in my dominant (Right) hand. I’m a week back into climbing after being out for three months with one, which has set me back more than a full grade. He examined my wrist, noting that certain movements (like pronation and supination with extended fingers) caused pain. Book online. It recently recovered but it got injured again after one training session. With the right training and gear, rock climbing is generally a safe activity. Vagy will take you through world-class warmups, workouts, and techniques to strengthen your entire body. Dr. Here I demonstrate a brief TFCC (Triangulo-fibro cartilage complex) evaluation on a patient who had a fall and injured his wrist. Apr 5, 2018 · Just fresh out of arthroscopic surgery on my let wrist where it turns out I had a TFCC articular disc central tear. Jan 16, 2025 · After the TFCC heals, taping the wrist while climbing can help provide additional stability and support, as well as prevent re-injury. Right wrist clicks, pops, grinds and basically makes doctors shake their head when they TFCC Tear / Repair Stretches & Exercises (Triangular Fibrocartilage Complex) - Ask Doctor Jo Sep 18, 2018 · TFCC tears are a common wrist injury that can make daily tasks difficult. Melbourne Hand Surgery (n. Other people climb once in a while as a weekend activity. Sport climbers and boulders are particularly susceptible to the development of shoulder injuries due to prolong repetitive upper limb movements on vertical or overhanging terrain. TFCC injury is related to the wrist – the TFCC (triangular fibrocartilage complex) is a load-bearing structure in the outer corner of your wrist which acts as a stabilizer. Went to a surgeon with my MRI and was ready for surgery. I'm 36 and started climbing last year just before lockdown. This is basically a tear or strain of the… Jul 13, 2017 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Current estimates from my OT is that I should be back to being able to weight it while deviated (which realistically is required for anything 5. Enroll today. It is located between lunate, triquetrum, and ulnar head, allowing load Mar 31, 2020 · A TFCC injury is an injury which Involves possible tears of the fibrocartilage articular disc and the tissue that connects the disc to the triquetrum and other carpals. Since I continued training throughout, I actually came back considerably stronger than before the injury ( minus loss of finger strength). Jul 18, 2022 · After two weeks rest, the pain only happens open-handed; if I crimp it doesn't hurt. I just started climbing again after a TFCC injury in January and it's at the rate of something like one 5. It can be torn or injured as a result of repetitive use or an accident, leading to pain and inflammation. Nov 30, 2021 · Like any extreme sport, rock climbing is challenging and fun as long as you’re aware of its unique set of dangers, injury concerns, and safety hazards. I was recently diagnosed with a TFCC injury. I tore my tfcc weight lifting a number of years ago and my ulna was slowly separating from my wrist over the course of years. ) describes TFCC to be similar to meniscus of the knee, acting as a shock absorber of the wrist and stabilizer especially during twisting movements. These discs can be torn or compressed from climbing on sloper holds because of the open-handed position. I confess: I used to resent slopers. I am now about 7 months back into climbing, still wearing the wrist widget and avoiding dynamic/wristy moves (mantels, big slopers, pressing, above head underclings, etc). These positions can create compression or traction forces through the wrist, particularly at the TFCC, leading to irritation or injury over time. I have a self-diagnosed TFCC injury in my dominant (Right) hand. I am an Occupational Therapist that works in a hand clinic.

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